Cartagena

Calma guide · Bolívar, Colombia

Cartagena

Inside the walls everything is for sale. The city is in Getsemaní and in Bazurto.

Reviewed · 11 min read

Why here

A walled Caribbean city that still works as a city. The walls went up so it wouldn't be sacked again, and today you walk along the top of them late in the afternoon, when the stone lets go of the day's heat and the wind comes off the bay. Inside, the houses with wooden balconies and bougainvillea are the real thing rather than reconstruction: Cartagena joined the world heritage list in 1984 and the old town survived whole, with its squares, its cathedral and its two-metre-wide lanes.

The contrast is what makes it. Ten minutes from the balcony in the photograph is Bazurto, the working market that feeds the city, and in between sits Getsemaní, the barrio of low houses and open doors where people carry chairs into the street at dusk. The cooking here is Caribbean and African before it is Andean: coconut in the rice, yam in the soup, fried fish with patacón, and a posta negra slow-cooked with panela until it turns almost sweet.

It is hot all year and there is no cool season: it is mid-thirties with high humidity in January exactly as in July, and at midday the old town cannot be walked. The city beach is grey, with surf and a level of vendor pressure that has ended up in court filings, so the turquoise water is an hour away by boat and costs extra. Inside the walls the prices are international and the street is relentless: bracelets, massages, hats, cocaine. If you travel to negotiate nothing, this will wear you out. And if you want a quiet beach outside your hotel, Barú or Tierra Bomba yes, the city no.

Language
Spanish
Currency
Colombian pesos (COP)

When to go

December to April

Dry season. Almost no rain, clear skies, and from January to March the northeasterly trade winds arrive, which is the only thing that genuinely takes the edge off the heat in this city. It is also when the two festivals worth the trip on their own happen: the music festival in early January and the Hay Festival at the end of the month.

May and June, when the rains start but still fall as short late-afternoon downpours. Fewer people, hotel rates down, and the city left to the people who live in it.

May to November, and October is comfortably the wettest month: the city takes around 1,020 millimetres a year and roughly 200 of them fall in October. It does not rain all day, it rains hard and briefly in the late afternoon, but the centre floods easily and boat trips to the islands get cancelled when the sea picks up.

Season or eventWhenWhat it changes
Fiestas de Independencia, 11 NovemberThe programme runs from late October to mid-NovemberThe city's own festival, now listed as district heritage, with parades, cabildos and the national beauty pageant in the middle of it. Cartagena pours into the street and the centre closes in sections. The national holiday falls on the Monday after the 11th, so beds sell out that weekend.
Cartagena Festival de Música9 to 17 January 2027Classical music in the convention centre and in the old town churches, with free concerts in the squares. It fills the city with Colombian audiences and visitors, and old town hotels go up.
Hay Festival Cartagena28 to 31 January 2027Four days of talks with writers at the Teatro Adolfo Mejía and the convention centre. Tickets go on sale in November and the physical box offices open on 25 January. It is the week with the least available accommodation in the whole first quarter.
Christmas, New Year and Holy Week20 December to 6 January, and March or April depending on the yearThe three peak-price windows. At New Year the old town fills with Colombian visitors and restaurants switch to expensive set menus; in Holy Week the city empties towards the beaches and the island boats run full.

The January-to-March winds are a blessing in the city and a problem on the water: when they blow hard, February especially, the Rosario island trips are cancelled or turn into an hour of slamming into chop. If the islands are the reason you are coming, leave two possible days in the itinerary rather than one, and ask in the morning before you pay.

Where to stay

Where to stay in Cartagena.

See all stays
Consultando disponibilidad real en Cartagena…

First, choose the neighborhood.

Choose the area before the hotel. In Cartagena, it changes the trip substantially.

The old town: San Diego and San Pedro

Inside the walls. Colonial houses turned into small hotels, squares with big trees, and lanes two metres wide where the sun doesn't reach until midday. San Diego is the quieter, more lived-in half; San Pedro has the cathedral and the restaurants.

For short stays, when you want to step out of the hotel and already be where you wanted to be.

Keep in mind: It is the most expensive place to sleep in Colombia and the one with the most street selling. And old houses carry sound: a party in one square is audible three blocks away.

Getsemaní

Just outside the walls, the barrio of low painted houses and murals. Plaza de la Trinidad fills at dusk with people sitting on the church steps with a beer and street food, and Calle del Arsenal holds the city's nightlife.

For anyone who wants to be where people gather, five minutes' walk from the centre and for considerably less money.

Keep in mind: It is loud until late, especially Thursday to Sunday. And it is changing fast: every season another house becomes a hotel and another family leaves the block.

Bocagrande

The peninsula of tower blocks, with the city beach in front and the shopping avenue behind. This is 1970s Cartagena, and the one middle-class Colombia uses on holiday.

For a large room with a sea view, a supermarket downstairs, and lower rates than the old town.

Keep in mind: The beach is grey sand with surf, and it is where the documented hassling by masseuses and vendors happens. The old town is ten minutes by taxi or half an hour along the seafront on foot.

Manga

A residential island between the centre and the bay, with early twentieth-century republican houses, trees along the streets and the fishing club. No tourism here, just neighbours.

For longer stays, or for repeat visits when you want to sleep well.

Keep in mind: There are almost no restaurants and no nightlife: you eat out, and that means a taxi every evening.

La Boquilla and the northern strip

North of the airport, the Afro-Caribbean fishing village and the line of large hotels that has grown beside it, with the mangrove lagoon behind.

For a long beach and a resort with everything inside, coming into the centre a couple of afternoons.

Keep in mind: You are twenty to thirty minutes from the old town with traffic in between. The beach is better than Bocagrande's, but the sea is still choppy and the water cloudy.

Where to eat

Where to eat in Cartagena, and exactly what to order.

Reference prices per person, in Colombian pesos (COP).

The morning fritos

Breakfast on this coast is fried and eaten standing up. Almost any street in the centre has a table with a pan on it, and the one in Plaza de San Diego has the most local people queueing in front of it.

The frito stalls in Plaza de San Diego

Plaza de San Diego, old town

Frying stalls built from a table, a pan and a glass case. They have no name, no menu and no opening hours: they have a time of day.

What to order

An arepa de huevo straight out of the oil, a carimañola — stuffed cassava — and a pastelito. With suero costeño poured over if they offer it.

The honest part: Cash, in small notes. The hour matters more than the stall: they fry first thing in the morning and again at dusk, and whatever is sitting in the case mid-morning has been there a while. If the case is full and there's no queue, walk on.

Lunch

Both are inside the walls and four blocks apart, but they are two different cities: one is home cooking, the other is the place with the longest queue in the centre.

La Mulata

Calle del Quero 9-58, San Diego

An everyday Cartagena dining room with a short menu, tables close together and a fan overhead. At lunch it fills with people who work in the centre, which is the best signal a place can have here.

What to order

Posta negra with coconut rice and avocado. It is beef cooked long with panela and spices until it turns dark and almost sweet, and it is the city's dish.

Phone: +57 301 493 3871

The honest part: Sources disagree on the closing day: some say Monday, others Sunday afternoon. Call before turning up, especially at the weekend. We publish no hours for the same reason.

La Cevichería

Calle Stuart 7-14, San Diego$$$ · 59,000 to 99,000 pesos for ceviche; 250,000 for the seafood volcán

A ceviche counter that spilled out into the street and has spent years being the place everyone wants to get into. Pavement tables, paper covers, shellfish from the bay.

What to order

The ceviche colombiano, which comes with pink sauce and is the local version, or the garlic crab claws. The seafood volcán is for sharing and takes forty minutes, so order it as you sit down.

Hours: Every day, 12:00 to 23:00

Phone: +57 314 894 9877Official website

The honest part: Those prices are from its own menu and they are destination prices: the seafood grill with lobster is 320,000 pesos. It earns that in fish and acidity, not in comfort. At peak hours there is a queue and no booking at the door: go early, before one, or late in the evening.

Two dinners you have to book

Both need planning: one because there is no room left, the other because you enter only if the prison service clears you. Neither happens on the same day you think of it.

Celele

Carrera 10c 29-200, Calle del Espíritu Santo, Getsemaní

The kitchen of Jaime David Rodríguez Camacho and his Proyecto Caribe: years of research into the ingredients of this coast, from river fish to native maize and wild fruit, served as a tasting menu.

What to order

The tasting menu. You can eat à la carte, but what the house has spent years looking for makes sense across the menu and not in a single dish.

Official website

The honest part: It publishes neither hours nor prices on its site: you book through its online system and the price shows up there. It is the most expensive thing in this guide and the only one worth booking before you leave home.

Interno

San Diego women's prison, old town

A restaurant inside the women's prison, cooked and served by inmates, with the proceeds going to their training and reintegration programmes. It was the first of its kind in Latin America.

What to order

From its published menu: carimañolas de posta to start, then posta cartagenera with arroz titoté, the rice made with burnt coconut caramel, or the coconut prawn encocado.

The honest part: You cannot get in without booking weeks ahead, because the prison service runs a background check on every diner: you give your details when you book and arrive with the same ID. It is a prison, so the access rules come from the institution and not the restaurant. The prices circulating online are years old; the one that counts is the one you are given when you confirm.

Three more things that are not restaurants. Bazurto market is where the city eats and where the cooking has no filter, but it is a working market, enormous and unsigned: go early, carry little, and preferably go with someone who knows it. Coconut limeade — limonada de coco — can be ordered anywhere and is the only thing that genuinely works against three o'clock in the afternoon. And the palenqueras selling fruit, the women in bright dresses with bowls on their heads, charge for the photograph: they are vendors at work, not decoration, and you agree the price before lifting your phone.

What to do

6 plans, from half a day to a full day.

The walls, late in the day

The walls, late in the day

The walk that makes sense of the city. You climb up at any of the bastions and follow the stone with the bay on one side and the rooftops on the other; the stretch from the Santo Domingo bastion out towards the point is the one that fills at sunset. It costs nothing and needs no guide. What it needs is to happen after five, because before that the heat coming off the stone is unbearable. Carry water.

An hour or twoIn town
Getsemaní on foot, at dusk

Getsemaní on foot, at dusk

The barrio makes sense when you walk it as the sun drops: Plaza de la Trinidad with people on the church steps, the murals on Calle de la Sierpe and Callejón Angosto, doors open and televisions facing the street. It is the only part of the tourist zone where people who don't work in tourism still live, and it is worth knowing that this is ending: every year another house becomes a hotel.

An afternoonIn town

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

The big fortress, on the hill facing the centre, with ventilation tunnels you can walk through. It is the piece of military engineering that explains why the city withstood the sieges it withstood. Go at opening or late: there is no shade and the hill multiplies the heat. We publish no admission price because we could not find the current year's figure from an official source.

A morningTransportation needed

The islands: Rosario, Barú or Tierra Bomba

The clear water is not in the city, it is an hour away by boat. The Rosario islands are a national park and the archipelago is done as a day trip; Playa Blanca, on Barú, can also be reached by road; and Tierra Bomba is twenty minutes by launch from Bocagrande and can be done in a morning. The charges come in layers, and this is the most common confusion of the trip: the boat or tour is one thing, the dock-use fee is another, and entry to Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo national park is a third, 13,500 pesos per person in 2026 for the protected area and 11,000 in the San Bernardo sector. Ask in writing what the price includes and carry pesos in cash for the dock.

Check before leaving: From January to March the wind can cancel the crossing or turn it into an hour of hard chop. Ask in the morning before paying, and if the islands are the reason for the trip, leave two possible days.

A full dayTransportation needed

Mercado de Bazurto

The working market that supplies Cartagena, ten minutes from the old town: fish, fruit, meat, cooking stalls and the noise of an entire city buying food. It is not a tourist attraction and it is not set up to be one, which is exactly why it is the closest thing to understanding the city that a morning can give you. Go early, carry the minimum, go with someone who knows it, and eat where the market's own people are queueing.

A morningTransportation needed

The mangroves at La Boquilla

North of the city, behind the fishing village, a lagoon holds mangrove tunnels you row through in a canoe. The village's own fishing associations run it, and it works first thing or at dusk, which is when the birds are there and when the sun lets you sit on the water. It is the opposite of the island day trip: silence, a paddle, and a long hour.

A morningTransportation needed

Getting around

Airport to the centre, ten minutes

Rafael Núñez airport sits inside the city, in the Crespo neighbourhood, and the old town is about ten minutes away without traffic. The terminals have authorised taxi desks that hand you a ticket with your destination and the price before you get in: it is the cleanest way to arrive. The 2026 references sit around 18,500 pesos to the centre or Getsemaní and 29,000 to Bocagrande, with night and holiday surcharges, but treat that as an order of magnitude and go with what the ticket says. Uber and inDriver work in the city, though at the airport they sit in a grey area and many drivers won't pick up at arrivals.

Around the city

Taxis have no meters: the district sets the fares by decree, and for 2026 Decreto 0051 put the minimum fare at 12,250 pesos, with a night surcharge. Agree the price before getting in, always, or use an app and skip the conversation. Transcaribe, the bus rapid transit, costs 3,900 pesos as of 23 January 2026 and serves the main avenue rather than the old town. The old town and Getsemaní are walkable end to end; Bocagrande is ten minutes by taxi or half an hour along the seafront.

To the islands

Boats to the Rosario islands and Playa Blanca leave from the La Bodeguita dock, opposite the clock tower, and the crossing takes a good hour depending on the sea. Tierra Bomba is twenty minutes across from Bocagrande. In every case the dock fees and the national park entry are paid separately, in cash, on the day: factor that in when you work out what the day will cost.

What most guides leave out

The horse-drawn carriages are gone, and it is worth knowing why.

No. The city banned them in the old town through Decreto 2296 of 2025, effective 29 December that year, and replaced them with up to 62 electric carriages owned by the district rather than by the drivers. In September 2026 the Constitutional Court went further and struck down the use of animals to pull tourist vehicles nationwide, with six months to substitute and relocate. If someone offers you a horse-drawn ride, they are selling something that is no longer legal. The carriage drivers lost their trade along the way and say they were promised a transition they did not get: this is not a closed matter, it is a recent one.

The old town has a decree behind it, and you feel it at night.

Cartagena carries a documented problem of sexual exploitation tied to tourism, and the city's answer was Decreto 003 of 2024, the Plan Titán: a curfew on under-16s in the old town after eight at night, suspension of both the practice and the promotion of prostitution in the area's public space, and closure of venues. Premises have been shut in operations since then, and the city is debating a regulated adults-only zone within its new planning framework. Law 1336 of 2009 penalises sex tourism involving minors. For you this means two things: what gets offered to you on the street at night has a context that is not folklore, and we are not telling you to stay in — we are telling you to know what you are looking at and what you would be taking part in.

The free massage sample on the beach is not free.

It is the city's most repeated hustle and it has been in the press for years: you are offered a sample massage, braids or a cocktail, it happens without a price being named, and afterwards hundreds of thousands of pesos are demanded, sometimes with an escort to the cash machine. There are cases from 2018, from 2023 and from 2026, and masseuses have been required to display a price list since 2016. The practical rule is simple: nothing begins until someone tells you the price, you accept no samples, and one no thank you said while you keep walking is enough. If it has already happened, report it: the city's digital complaint channel has worked in these cases.

The islands charge you three times, and it is better to know first.

The price you get on the phone is almost never the total. The boat or day trip, the dock-use fee paid at the pier on the day, and entry to Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo national park all run separately — the park being 13,500 pesos per person in 2026 for the protected area and 11,000 in the San Bernardo sector. The dock fees in circulation vary quite a bit by operator and pier, so we don't give a single figure: what works is asking in writing what is included and carrying pesos in cash for whatever isn't.

The tip is voluntary and they have to ask you.

No. Law 1935 of 2018 says a suggested tip cannot exceed 10% of the service before tax, and that it only goes on the bill with your acceptance: whoever serves you has to ask whether you want it included and for how much. Adding it without asking is sanctionable by the consumer protection authority. Separately there is the consumption tax, the 8% restaurants charge instead of VAT. If the bill arrives with the 10% already on it and nobody asked you, you can ask for it to be taken off.

Tap water, depending on who you ask.

The water utility, Acuacar, says yes: it reports meeting the Colombian sanitary standard, publishes its quality certificates, and sits in the no-risk category, the best on the scale. Travel guides say the opposite and point at where the water comes from, the Canal del Dique. The official source here is the utility itself and the counterargument isn't technical, so we are not going to settle it: if your stomach is sensitive or you have just come off a long trip, bottled water and no ice for the first few days, and the question stops mattering.

The heat does not drop at night, or in January.

There is no cool season. It is mid-thirties with high humidity all year and it barely drops after dark: the relief comes from the northeasterly wind between January and March, not from the month. That changes the itinerary more than people expect — between noon and four the old town cannot be walked, and days split into early morning and after five. Linen and cotton, a hat, a thin long-sleeved shirt for the sun, and comfortable shoes for stone streets. You need nothing warm outdoors; inside the air-conditioned restaurants, sometimes you do.

If you only have three days

The shortest itinerary that works.

1

Breakfast on fritos in Plaza de San Diego first thing, straight out of the oil, and walk the old town before the sun lands: the cathedral, the squares, Calle del Candilejo. At lunch, posta negra at La Mulata, having called ahead so you don't find it closed. Sleep through the afternoon or get inside a museum, because between noon and four the street is unmanageable, and come back out at five to climb the walls and see them from above with the wind off the bay. Dinner in Getsemaní, and stay a while on the steps at Trinidad.

2

Island day, and ask in the morning before you pay: from January to March the wind decides. Leave from La Bodeguita with pesos in cash for the dock fee and the national park entry, 13,500 per person in 2026, and get in writing what the price covers. If the sea is up, swap the plan for Tierra Bomba, twenty minutes from Bocagrande, or for the La Boquilla mangroves by canoe. Back in town, ceviche at La Cevichería, arriving early before the queue forms.

3

Bazurto in the morning, early and with someone who knows it: it is the market that feeds the city and the real cooking is there. Then Castillo de San Felipe at opening, tunnels included, while standing in the sun is still possible. Book dinner before you even travel: Celele in Getsemaní to see how far this coast's cooking goes, or Interno if you managed to get on the list weeks ahead.